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How To Find Honeymoon
Phuket
Island ThailandThe best course
of action to take sometimes isn't clear until you've listed and
considered your alternatives. The following paragraphs should
help clue you in to what the experts think is significant.
I have long dreamt of visiting the Phi Phi Islands . I first
read about these beautiful remote islands off the coast of
Phuket about 10 years ago and then, like everybody else, I was
spellbound with the stunning scenery shown in the movie, The
Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio. After seeing the film for a
second time, I decided that Phi Phi would be my honeymoon
destination one day.
You can imagine my sense of anticipation when I finally arrived
there with my bride a few weeks ago. Most tourists arrive by
sea from Phuket or Krabi, but we decided to fly there from
Phuket Airport using a new seaplane service, Blue Water Air. As
we came down to land, I looked out at the splendid sight below
- soaring cliffs and dense forests bordering golden stretches
of sand. We boarded a speedboat and a few minutes later we
arrived at the delightful little village at Ton Sai Bay.
Although it is commonly referred to as Phi Phi “island”,
pronounced Pee-Pee, there are actually two islands. The bigger
of the two, Phi Phi Don, is where everybody stays, as the
smaller Phi Phi Lei is uninhabited. The big attraction on Phi
Phi Lei is Maya Bay and its beautiful beach, where the movie
was shot. On Phi Phi Don there are some superb resorts dotted
around the coastline, but most accommodation is in Ton Sai
village. The settlement is perched on a stretch of sand between
two steep hills, with the sea bordering either side.
My first surprise on arriving was to find that there are no
motorcars on the island. Porters use hand-carts to transport
luggage from the pier to your hotel room and the speediest form
of transport is the bicycle. Small, winding lanes run between
the hotels and bungalows, packed with little stores offering
everything from 24-hour Internet services and diving packages
to pizzas and pancakes.
After booking into our hotel, the Phi Phi Island Cabana, we set
off for a swim in Loh Dalum Bay, only a few metres away. It was
surprisingly shallow and we waded out with the occasional sea
kayak or Thai fisherman for company. As the sun set we lay back
in the water and looked at the lights of the waterfront cafes
and bars twinkling under the palm trees. We were in heaven!
Later that night we celebrated our first night on Phi Phi with
cocktails at the Jungle Bar, a fabulous beachside bar lit by
flame torches. We met some young Scandinavian backpackers and
they advised us to head down the beach to an Italian
restaurant, Ciao Bella, for “the best pizza in Thailand ”. My
wife opted for prawns from the fresh seafood on display, but I
ordered a pizza, which lived up to its reputation. Later I
chatted with the Italian owner, who told me that he has lived
on Phi Phi for more than 10 years. His family live in Phuket
during the week, but he prefers the simple life in his
beachfront bungalow.
Early the next morning we hired a speedboat and set off to see
Maya Bay, the cove where most of the film was made.
Surprisingly, it has remained unspoilt despite the crowds which
visit every day. Get there early – or just before sunset – and
you should have at least part of the beach to yourself. When
the first ferryload of daytrippers arrived, we went snorkelling
on the other side of the island. I have snorkelled before, but
this was really special. It felt like I was drifting above a
marine wonderworld, with brightly-coloured fish swarming around
me. My wife was nervous at first, but later we struggled to get
her out of the water! We then did a trip around the island,
stopping off in quiet little bays for a swim.
Sometimes the most important aspects of a subject are not
immediately obvious. Keep reading to get the complete
picture.
When we finally returned to the pier, I was ready to head for a
late afternoon nap, but my wife had a different idea. “What
about a Thai massage?” she asked. We headed off to one of the
little massage shops and, for the next 90 minutes, I drifted
off into a blissful half-sleep.
That night I was all set for another night of drinking and
dining with my toes in the sand, but my wife decided she wanted
to go somewhere “elegant”. “Darling, we're on an island, miles
from anywhere,” I pleaded. “Don't be silly, we'll find
somewhere special here”, was her retort. And we did. That night
we dined at an excellent little French restaurant, named Le
Grand Bleu, situated in an alley close to the jetty.
Fortified by a bottle of wine, we then headed for the stretch
of lively bars that are mostly frequented by backpackers. Those
we liked best were Apache, a loud, massive bar consisting of a
series of terraces clinging to a steep hillside, and Carlitos,
a small bar which featured an amazing “fire show”, where
dancers twirled and juggled flaming batons. The star of the
show told us he had set up classes to teach his skills to
locals, so get ready for a host of fire-dancing stars emanating
from Phi Phi!
The next day we chartered a longtail boat and spent the day on
Bamboo Island about 30 minutes away. We relaxed in the shade of
the casuarinas and palms fringing the beach and read novels
bought from a second-hand book store before we left the
village. We intended to take a scuba diving course, but the
urge to do as little as possible increased the longer we stayed
on the island. There was always something new to discover in
the village, my favourites being a reggae bar tucked away up
the hill and a bakery where the TV seemed to show movies all
day to an appreciative backpacker audience.
Most of the time I was happy to prop myself up at one of the
little bars along the seafront chatting to whoever dropped in,
while my wife was content to lie and suntan in a deckchair on
the beach only metres away. One afternoon we managed to rouse
ourselves enough to undertake the rather strenuous walk up the
nearby mountain to the “viewpoint” – a spot where you can take
in the full splendour of the bays below. It was magnificent and
worth the tiring hike.
Our five-day holiday on Phi Phi seemed far too short. As we
prepared to board the boat to the seaplane's floating jetty, I
insisted we take off our shoes and wade out into the bay for
one last time. With my dream of visiting the island fulfilled,
I am now looking forward to heading back for a second
honeymoon. It can't come soon enough.
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